Ilulissat, Greenland

“A hunter without dogs is half a hunter,” runs an oft-quoted Greenland folk saying. Because the early Inuit, the indigenous people of Greenland, had to get by on what they were able to catch and kill, dogs often meant the difference between survival and starvation. Today, although snowmobiles are becoming more popular, the dog sled continues to play a vital role as a means of winter transport for Greenlandic fishermen and hunters. Ilulissat, one of Greenland’s largest west coast settlements, boasts around 4500 residents (and about 3500 sled dogs), and is one of the best places to sample Inuit culture.